Collar and the like



.1 -.me 24, 1930. s, G, JYNE @g3/56,25@

COLLAR AND THE LIKE Original Filed Nov. '12, 1926v Patented .inne 211i. i931@ titane sanear. raisins, or newline', enclin rsriaivn Corman aan Linn,

Application led November present invention as resoit collar art, it is only it has to do -with the are of foldability in i 's subject has been so unich c( idered in prior patents and adjudications reef, no general statements of the problems a re required as a preface Vto my present giscnssion.

In my present invention I have departed from the general previous conception of establishing a definite line of fold in a collar. The diilicultv with such a conception lies in the varied contour of the necl of the wearer which so varies the set of commercially made collar that any predetermined definito linecan have no more than an average of approximate it. My present invention may, therefore, be said to contemplate'a collar capable of fold in a predetermined area with such variance as will provide accommodation for the individual contour of the neck of each wearer.

Y rIvo this end my invention contemplates a dveiopmcnt in the field of the stretch in fabrics. The factor of shrinkage has been considered but for commercial purposes the results have been so widely variant that commercial. success has not been possible. In my present invention I deal with stretchability as distinguished from shrinkage. For the purposes of my present disclosure I have provided drawings somewhat diagrammatic in character as illustrative of simple forms of in classi lated to the necessary to sta mach co sidered e suoli coll.,

' my invention and to these drawings I make reference by usual characters similarly applied throughout. In the drawings Fig. l is a plan vie-w of a collar of the type specilied. y

Fig. Q a view of such a collar folded and bent.

Fig. 8 a fragment showing one form of stretch retardation.

Fig. t a similar view showing another modification, and

Fig. a further modification.

In such a collar as is indicated in Fig. l I have indicated it as comprising a noch band poi-tion l and an overfold portion 2. I have also indicated the rear collar buttonhole at 3 1356. Serial No: 148,053. Renewed January 10, 1930.

and the front collar buttonholes at li. I have also indicated in Fig. l by a broken line A-A, what might be considered as the limit of line of fold in one direction. rlhe dotted and dash line B-B maybe considered as the extreme line of fold in theother direction. These linesare merely illustrative and intended to convey the idea' that for different necksy the fold may shift considerably. Such folds are v-usually governed as at X'X by suitable form 60 or construction at the ends of the collar and for that reason the lines are shown as meeting or approximately meeting at that point.

vI have indicated by the lines T threads which extend generally at an angle to the lines ifi-A. and B--B, so that they `are oblique or diagonal of the collar. No effort is'made to show exact fabric as special weaves are not necessary in my collar. In fact, while thev collarsmay be woven in narrow fabrics with a diagonal weave, they may be given the required curvature and configuration in accordance with the practice in such collar vweavings. It will be understood that these collars can be made by simply cuttingl them from broad fabric so that the weave is biased. The point, therefore, is that whatever the method of making the fabric, whether woven or otherwise, the trend or direction of the thread should be in the collar at an angle to so the region ofthe fold. When so considered it will be seen that the threads T as in Fig. l cross each other so that considered from the lineof fold they might be regarded as practically pivoted members. This gives to the fabric a considerable degree of longitudinal stretchability which'is principally effective at the edges of Vthe collar as distinguished from what is generally termed-as the line of fold.

f In accordance with my invention I prefer to provide a retardantfor this longitudinal stretchability in the region of the collar band l. -In the case of simple collar structures, as where the collar is formed from a single fab- 95 ric, this may be accomplished by a line of stitches S as appears in Fig. 3.' The same general effect may be accomplished by applying `any sort of-a band or binding as S1 shown in Fig. 4:. Such a retardant in the collar 1Go band provides a suflicient differential in the longitudinal stretch of the collar so that when the collar is folded. as in Fig. 2, the outside portion or overfold 2 can stretch sufciently to conform to the band portion l whatever the .line of the fold may be as it develops on the neck of the individual wearer.

In the modication shown in Fig. .3 the line of stitching` S may be of simple stitch or of any more elaborate form as may be desired. Even a simple line of stitching will retard the stretch in that portion of the collar so as to accentuate the relative freedom of the overfold portion Q. In F ig. Il, the stretch retardant is a band which may be of cross woven fabric or fabric of any other type. Such fabrics should not of` course be 'a longitudinelly stretchable fabric, although any fabric when stretched to such a collar will act as a retardant.

From the above it will be seen that such collars when put on for wear simply find their own fold, the rest ofthe collar and particularly the overfold portion 2 conforming` so as to lie smooth and fit tightly. Such collars will be found to fold naturally and freely and yet so definitely that the line of fold will be positive. I, have notl attempted in the drawings to 'show the relative displacements of the threads due to stretch. Thisis impracticable as the adjustment is rather slight in the fine threads but' with the above explanation it will be understood by those skilled vin the art and although the results may be unexpected they can be so readily tested that attempts ati verbal vd'emonstation is un necessary.

In Fig. 5 I have shown a form of stitching which presents certain combined factors `n that it is both a stretch retarda-ntuand a finishing stitch. Its particular importance is in connection with low pricedcollars as it is a '-isfactory substitute for the overcasting of the raw edge as the usual practice before turnin and stitching down. As shown, the stitch is laid by a so-called fagoting machine which produces on the turned edge of the collar a fagoting veffect as indicated aty S2 while on the opposite face of the collar it produces a parallel row vof stitches as 82. The stitch S2 is laid over a tape or cord C which prevents the stretch in the band portion of the collar. In such other portions as 4may be so stitched'where stretch is desired the cord C is omitted. In this way the stitching down'of the turn of the `collar edge is effected while at the same time producing 'a longitudinal retardant for the stretch. This modification illustrates a group of possible variants which will be readily understood.

The modifications suggested are obviously merely a few of many variants that could be shown. The multiplication of such is omitted in the interest of simplicity. All such, however, are to be understood as Within the purview of my invention and to be Within its scope as I intend to claim it.

lfihat I therefore claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. A one-piece collar presenting when overfolded upon itself, a neck band portion and an overfold portion, saidvneck band portion being provided with stretch retarding means for preventing stretching and permissive of loneitudinal stretch in its areas above said retarding means, thereby causing the collar when stretched to assume a fan-like form, the fabric from which said collar is formed being cut on the bias continuously across the full width ofthe combined hand portion and overfold portion to produce an increasing longitudinal stretchability in a direction from the retarding means on thevband towards the Ioutside ofthe overfold portion.

2. A one-piece collar presenting when overfolded upon itself a neckband portion and an overfold portion, said neck band portion having along its bottom edge only means for positively retarding longitudinal stretch thereof in sa-id edge area only .and permissive of longitudinal arcuate stretch in its areas above said retarding means, thereby causingthe-co'llar when stretched to assume a fanlike for-m, the fabric from which said collar is formed being cut on the bias continuously across the full width of the combined band portion and. overfold portion to produce an increasing longitudinal stretchability in a direction from `the bottom edgeof the band portion towards-the outside of the overfold portion resulting in a collar adapted to snugr-ly fit the neck band of the shirt and to freely conform to the neck above the neck band of the shirt and to fold smoothly and uniformly and without wrinkles when worn.

In testimony whereof I affixV my. signature.

SAMUEL Gr. PAYNE.

lill) llt) 

